It had been a very long day. Worth every mile. The Peljesac Peninsula is absolutely beautiful and enough off the beaten path to where you feel adventuresome, but not lost in the wilderness. The roads are in excellent condition and there is an abundance of water taxis and ferries to neighboring islands. While Croatia is not quite run over by tourist yet, you’ll really feel that your in the local communities of Croatia throughout the Peljesac Peninsula.
Our driver dropped us off at the ferry port of Drvenik. Our driver was actually sad to see us go. Even though the language barrier kept us from communicating, he warmed up to our humor and good nature, and was fairly involved with us by the end of the trip. Drvenik is a small ferry village on the mainland of Croatia. We paid for the next ferry to Hvar island and within an hour or so it arrived. We dragged our luggage onboard and went to the top of the ship and readied ourselves for the journey by popping open a bottle of Dalmatino and passing it around. Dalmatino tastes like a Vodka infused Fresca or a light lemon drop martini. It is very good, and a treat I highly recommend. We have yet to find it in the states, so you’ll want to buy a bottle to bring back.
The ferry trip is about 40 minutes from Drvenik to Sucuraj, which is the eastern most tip of Hvar. Hvar is a long thin lsland that extends from Sucuraj to Hvar Town, which is close to the western most point of the island. The ferry ride was tremendous. It was sunset and we had such a perfect view of the horizon that for the first time I actually witness the “Green Flash”. The Green Flash occurs when the setting sun crosses the horizon on a very still ocean. At the moment the last spec of light from sun is above the horizon line a flash of green color will spark as the sun dips below the horizon. It’s quite an amazing thing to see, and very rare.
In Sucuraj, we unloaded our gear off the ferry and searched for a cab to Hvar Town. We made a definite miscalculation in determining the length of Hvar. It was actually quite longer than we had anticipated and most of the cabs did not wanted to drive the trip at night or had retired for the evening. We found someone to help us locate a taxi that would accommodate our gear and all 8 of us. He was a really cool young guy, ready for the adventure. So we loaded in and set out across the island of Hvar.
The drive across Hvar was long, at least 2 hours. Unfortunately it was pitch black, so we could not take in the views or the terrain. After what seemed like an eternity we arrived in Hvar town. We paid the driver and took off across the cobblestones to find our hotel. Mistake number two was not asking where the Hotel Amfora was. We were at the farthest point of the town We dragged our luggage through the crowded town and down the tree-lined pathway up a long slow slope to the Hotel Amfora. But that was not all. The Hotel Amfora is a gigantic structure that originally had to have been a Communist state sponsored hotel. It’s since been turned into a swanky boutique hotel, but the remnants of the proletariat are still there, including a massive staircase that leads to tiny elevators. So there we were, dragging our luggage up stair after stair then up the tiny elevator one at a time until we all made it to the luxurious hotel lobby. Now, I have to confess again, this was completely our fault. You can easily get a taxi to drop you at the lobby door of the Hotel Amfora. We took the hard way, but hey, it makes for a good story.